Culinary Conversations with Khari: Honey Lemon Cheesecake

Our first installation of our chef in residence, Khari Hairston-El, this recipe appeases a year-round sweet tooth.  A fragrantly, zingy-nectar dessert that makes a great after-dinner treat, lemon honey cheesecake.

If you know my story, cheesecake was my entry into food. In 1992, while attending Florida A&M University, I learned how to make cheesecakes from my chef roommate, Dawood Headley-El.

Back then, the struggle was real. Before Venmo and CashApp, you had to either deal with the school cafeteria or put together your own noodles, sandwiches, and hot dogs. My dilemma was that I didn’t like to eat white food or anything creamy until my roommate’s side business introduced me to cheesecake.

Up until then, I’d never had cheesecake, but when he gave me a sample of his chocolate chip recipe, a brother was convinced. So much so, I asked if he could teach me how he did it.

Initially, his answer was, “No,” but at the time, we lived with another fellow FAMU student named Larry Tait, who renamed himself Zaccai Free. With Free, we had parties that served food and desserts, and believe me, they were good. It was then that he gave me the recipe.

Eventually, Dawood left FAMU, and I asked if I could use his preparations to sell cheesecakes to make a living. By that time, I was a father and really needed a hustle. Thankfully, he agreed. By 1994, I was selling cherry and mandarin orange cheesecake slices at the African Marketplace on campus.

When I moved back to Cali, and in the Los Angeles area, I launched a confectionery business called the Cheesecake Pimp, where I hawked slices on the public bus. Some years later, that venture turned into, Put Yo Foot in It Bakery.Then I changed the name to, JaJa Bakery, in 2008. JaJa is Igbo for God’s Gift, and I’m thankful for that gift.

Between then and now, I went to culinary school and have worked in several capacities as a chef, while keeping my cheesecake business, where I ship across the country.

This honey-lemon cheesecake can be made year-round because the main ingredients are easy to find. Because I was the first chef for Black Farmers Index’s Farmer and a Chef series, I will be recommending farmers from whom you can get baking or cooking essentials for my recipes. Many of them will be sourced from the Black Farmers Index’s list.

I love the honey from Boogie Down Bronx Honey, a small provider, Apiary in the Sky, which now goes by APIAN Industry. If you didn’t know this, honey doesn’t spoil, and a little can go a long way if it is raw and real. Many of the things you buy in the grocery store are cut with other ingredients or just straight up fake, so find a small apiary as your source.

For the most part, lemons are a regular surplus at the store. The taste may shift from tangy to a bit milder, but this honey-lemon cheesecake is a great idea as we wait for spring harvests to bring more varieties of fruit.

Overall, the cheesecake is both tangy and sweet and pairs well with coffee from Sweet Unity Farms Coffee, a business founded by David Robinson, son of Jackie Robinson. They use Arabica beans grown in the volcanic soil of the Rift Valley, sourced from family-owned cooperatives in Tanzania and Ethiopia. Then they are roasted in New York.

For the kiddies, big or small, cold milk or warm earl’s grey tea is a great idea. For those a little more daring, try a bourbon neat, or a Reposado tequila with fresh lime. Even a smooth Cognac with a twist of orange gives a great balance too.

Honey Lemon Cheesecake

Ingredients

Crust:

• 2 cups graham cracker crumbs, finely crushed
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 6 tablespoons melted butter

Cheesecake:

• 2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
• 1⁄4 cup sugar
• 1⁄2 cup honey
• Juice and zest from one large lemon
• 1 tablespoon flour
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• drop of yellow food coloring (optional)
• 4 eggs, room temperature
• 1 cup sour cream, room temperature

Instructions

1. Heat oven to 325 F.
2. Prepare a 9-inch springform pan by lightly buttering the sides of the ring. A springform pan is a specialized pan with a removable base that makes it easier to get your cake out. Place a 10-inch round of parchment over the bottom of the pan and set the ring over it. Hold the ring down firmly and close the clasp, trapping the parchment. You should be able to see a small “ruffle” from the outside. This gives your crust a smooth appearance all the way to the plate. It will ooze butter in the oven, so make sure you have a baking sheet or foil under it.
3. Combine the graham cracker crumbs, brown sugar, and melted butter.
4. Using a straight sided measuring cup, press the crust firmly and evenly in the pan. Using one hand to support the side of the pan, press firmly all the way around. Mixture doesn’t have to go all the way to the top.
5. In a large bowl, beat the cream cheese and white sugar until smooth. Add the honey (try the honey from Boogie Down Bronx Honey), lemon juice and zest, flour, vanilla, and food coloring. Beat on medium until combined.
6. Add eggs, one at a time, beating on low just until incorporated. Do not over beat!
7. Fold in sour cream and pour over the crust, smoothing with a knife.
8. Place the pan on a baking sheet and bake for 70 minutes. Without opening the oven door, turn the oven off and let the cheesecake remain in the oven for 30 minutes.
9. Test by shaking the pan gently. The inside should jiggle a bit. This is exactly what you want. If the whole thing wobbles, close the door and leave it in there for another 30 minutes before removing.
10. If your cheesecake extends over the top of the crust, run a knife gently around the edge, right down to the crust, to avoid cracks as it cools.
11. Once completely cool, refrigerate until ready to decorate and serve

Chef Khari will be featured in our Ark Weekender series.